Day Thirty Six

Huntsville AL to Maryville TN

Monte Sano State Park turned out to have more than just showers 🙂 After a hot cereal breakfast we obtained a hiking map and hit the trail. Through a forest of tall leafy trees glowing like neon in the sun we hiked to several beautiful look outs over the Alabama jungle country. This trail is a piece of a much longer birding trail all across the northern boarder of the state, so we brought our binocs and stopped each time we heard a new call. Much to our surprise we stumbled across a little waterfall cascading over a cliff, hiking down to its base we realized we could touch it or ever walk behind it getting a little soaked. Back on the trail we found another trickling waterfall, this time we headed off trail along the edge of the creek which turned into a cascade of ten or so waterfalls with a glorious climactic ending at a twenty foot drop along a rocky backdrop. It was magnificent!! After we were adventured out we climbed back into Robin and headed into town for some good ol Nawleans style food. A Cajun Jerk Chicken Po-boy, hush puppies and a sweet tea later I have declared my new favorite cuisine. On the road again we drove through Tennessee to the Great Smoky Mountains!! Parked to sleep just outside the National Park.
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Day Thirty Five

Helena, MS to Huntsville, Alabama

On the road in Mississippi! The trees are changing, long vine like sticks drip from every branch, it looks swampy. Stopped in Oxford for a bite to eat, colorful little place with ferns hanging from every second story balcony. Visited the Faulkner residence. Ate Shipley’s donuts on our way out of town. Cruised to Tupelo, toured Elvis Presley’s birth place and museum. Jumped on to Natchez Trace Parkway, it parallels a very old trail used by natives and traders to get from the Mississippi River near the coast diagonally through the state up to today’s Nashville Tennessee. We drove this beautiful parkway to the border of Alabama, stopping to hike through sloughs and along the old trace on our way. There was even a small cemetery for unknown civil war victims. In Alabama we waded through a crazy storm that ended in a rainbow at sunset, landed in Huntsville’s Monte Sano State Park after dark, pulled into our secluded forest to hear a barred owl hoot us to sleep.
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Day Thirty Four

Oppelo, AR to Helena, MS

Sunday morning, biscuits and bacon. We headed off to mass at the home parish, St Elizabeth. Uncle Freddy gave warning that everyone I meet today is either kin or kin of kin, I was so excited to explore my roots. Each and every shinny face was happy to see us with a hand shake or hug, inquiring about family out west. I was so filled up with love I could burst! After mass we talked and met more family and talked some more over a delicious pot luck of homemade goodies and sweet tea. I was so thankful to hug my Granpa’s sisters; Helen, Irene and Bernice, they held my hands and wouldn’t let go, we were all giggling with joy. Farewell hugs were hugs to take with us back home. Later at Uncle Freddy and Aunt Becky’s we packed up the van, they were so generous loading us up with Tupperware full of dinner and treats. Several hugs, and a teary see-you-soon, later we were on the road, cruised through Little Rock on our way to Mississippi. Crossed the river to sleep on its shore filled up with the joys of home, but anxious for the unknown ahead.

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Day Thirty Three

Oppelo, Arkansas

Woke up to the smell of sausage, french toast and eggs. Enjoyed sitting around the kitchen table laughing and talking, it felt so natural being with family, even though we hadn’t seen each other in ten years! Went out to the garage to change Robin’s oil, uncle Freddy even fashioned us the perfect front license plate and a new portable fan! Ate delicious BBQ sandwiches and apple turnovers before getting the grand tour of the area where my Granpa grew up and where family is currently living. Uncle Freddy shared stories and we laughed alot. It is such beautiful country, I was blown away! Headed back home to watch the Kentucky Durby, my horse came in second 😉 Drove to a near by town to eat at a hibachi buffet, stuffed to the brim we wandered home at sunset crossing over Petit Jean Mountain. Slept soundly that night, tucked warm in bed that felt like home.

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Day Thirty Two

Hot Springs to Oppelo, Arkansas

Chilled to the bone after a wet night, Mitch fashioned a garbage bag over the vent that summons the native’s drumming, so beyond the chill we slept soundlessly. Decided to decline the hiking opportunities for the day and instead doze in the hot springs water at the park’s authentic bathhouse spa. Packed up camp to roll down Bathhouse Row on our way to Buckstaff. For centuries people flocked to the hot spring water largely for healing or spiritual purposes, but once popular in the late 1800s bathhouses were built to profit off the natural springs and offer a more “modern” experience for its guests and patients. The hot water is believed to have healing qualities as it is perfectly pure straight from the source and 143 degrees! At the bathhouse, following traditional practices, I went up a flight to the lady’s quarters, with women for attendants and Mitch remained on the base floor to the men’s, with male attendants. From there we basically had the same experience. After taking the rickety old elevator to the second floor, I was escorted to the changing room to get undressed and prepared for the authentic bathhouse practices. Wrapped like a Greek goddess in a sheet I was introduced to Maddy, my attendant, who filled an old claw foot tub with hot springs water, steam rising off the surface I got in to soak in the 100 degree glory. Maddy turned on “the jets” a vintage pump that has a pipe leading into the water blowing out rapid bubbles, a warning label on the pump instructed “patients” of its proper use. After about twenty minutes, Maddy returned with two little cups of iced springs water to sip on while I moved to the next treatment, the Sits Tub. A throne like tub filled with about five inches of hot water to soak your hips, lower back and rump. Covering the remaining exposure in a sheet Maddy handed me a magazine to enjoy. Soon she returned to take me to the steam room and refill my water. I have never seen or done anything like it. The steam room is a metal box a couple shoulder widths wide, I sat on a bench inside the box while Maddy closed the entrance door and two panels on the top, so only my head remained popping from the top like a turtle from its shell. The steam rose and dripped around me, but it felt refreshing with the cool air about my face. Next I was led to rinse off the sweat in the Needles shower. This shower has several shower heads spitting water at you from all sides. Once rinsed, Maddy led me to the cool down area where she laid towels drenched in hot springs water on a doctor’s cot for me to lay on, a hot towel around my face and wrapped around my feet. After the towels had lost their heat, Maddy said farewell as she turned me over to my massage therapist for a full body swedish massage using hot lotion heated by the water. It was quite an experience, I was rosey red, relaxed, and toasty warm back in the changing room. Mitch looked refreshed as well as we joined up to fill our water bottles full of steaming water at a near by faucet, jumped in the car and headed downtown to get delicious BBQ pulled pork sandwiches, ribs, potato salad, coslaw, and peach cobbler at Stubby’s, a popular spot recommended by Mitch’s attendant. Stuffed to the brim we drove an hour north through gorgeous green to Oppelo Arkansas hometown of my Granpa Zimmerman and a hundred or so relatives I was beyond ready to meet. My Uncle Freddy and Aunt Becky greeted us with warm hugs and huge smiles, we talked for a couple hours around their table in the kitchen before taking our conversation to a local steak house for a scrumptious meal, we haven’t eaten this good in weeks, but even more filling is the palpable love of the kindest hosts.

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Day Thirty One

Eufaula Oklahoma to Hot Springs National Park Arkansas

Woke up in the early morning to the same crackling crunching sound that we had heard the night before. With the morning sun shinning through the windows, my eyes adjusted to see the straw of my milkshake cup moving in circles, rubbing the edge of its plastic lid! I pushed Mitch awake, “That’s it!” pointing at the source poking out of my hiking boot holder between the front seats. Mitch quickly clambered over, in one swoop he picked up the cup and flung it as I opened the sliding door. We both froze doe eyed looking out at the cup in the grass, and just as surprised a little mouse popped his head out the top of the lid, we starred each other down for about a minute, each as shocked as the other. Once we broke eye contact out of disbelief, the little milkshake lover scurried off into the woods and we thanked our lucky stars for a built in mouse trap. Still have no idea where he came in, just glad he is gone now. Took hot showers, ate breakfast and loaded up on our way to Arkansas! We decided to take the scenic byway to cross the border. This byway was the first road ever built with the specific purpose of being a scenic road. We pulled over at the first look out and gazed down into fog so thick you couldn’t see your own feet. So much for the beautiful views. Rolled through the gorgeous oak lined roads and lush green fields of Arkansas. Parked Robin in Hot Springs National Park, bundled up for a chilly night.

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Day Thirty

Lake McClallen National Grasslands, Texas to Eufaula, Oklahoma

Woke up to the wind swishing through the trees, ate some breakfast and hit the road for Oooooooooooklahoma, where the wind blows swiftly down the plains. Stopped at the information center on the OK border and talked with the quirky attendant siping on a flask of apple cider vinegar, he recommended camping near lake Eufaula in eastern OK. We took his advice and cruised through Oklahoma City on our way to this lake and tree oasis. To this day I have never seen a live armadillo, but man have I seen enough of them as road kill to last a lifetime, poor things must be slow. We were pleasantly surprised to actually find water in this lake, and lots of it! As the rainy season continued to rush the rivers, bringing all sorts of sediment along, it began to overflow the lake with water the color of red clay. I have never seen a red tinted lake, it was something. Found a cozy place to camp along the lake. Talked with the camp host, Dee an older gentlemen, with a potbelly and a huge grin, who was just as quirky as the information attendant. He told us his life’s history in a matter of minutes and how he has caught 65 lb Mississippi Blues and Whites while “noodling” out in the lake. The friendliness here in the south is palpable, they arn’t kidding about southern hospitality. Strolled down to the river’s edge to catch the sunset with Mitch’s harmonica as a sound track. Tucked into bed we pulled up a movie on the iPad. About twenty minutes in we hear a strange crumpling crackling sound not coming from the movie, Mitch quickly muted it to find its source, but it stopped just as quickly. After a thorough search we decided it was coming from the roof rack outside the canvas window, Dee had warned us about “those damn (ra)coons”. Finished the movie and went to bed after a long driving day through the state of Oklahoma!

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Day Twenty Nine

Tucumcari, New Mexico to Lake McClellan National Grasslands, Texas

Left New Mexico and headed into Texas. Flat dessert land surrounding us for miles and miles. Drove through Amarillo. Stopped to get free wifi at Starbucks and catch the world up on the past week. Then picked out the only blue water on the map, a lake in the middle of National Grasslands, close to the Oklahoma border. Drove toward a moorage on the horizon as we approach the lake, it turned out to be northern Texas’ biggest dried up puddle. Not a drip of water was visible in this lake of sand and dirt, but the oak tree groves surrounding the body-less water was no disappointment! And National Grasslands, shmaz-lands, it seemed to be protecting the oil drilling rather than the wildlife. The wind tore through the place but with a little tree protection we decided to still keep the pop top down. Watched the sun set deep into the sky before eating the pizza we ordered as take-out. Snuggled up as the wind sang us to sleep.

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Day Twenty Eight

Albuquerque to Tucumcari, New Mexico

Last night driving into Albuquerque the lights sparkling on the horizon felt like we were entering New York City. In the morning we drove into Old Town to get a local vibe. There are lots of little gifty shops lining the sidewalks with unique and brightly colored New Mexico flare. In the center is a plaza with a tall white balcony, and on this particular day a celebration was taking place with drums and shakers and chanting, what a way to honor a person’s life. It was beautiful. Leaving Albuquerque we headed east in a straight line. Drove almost to the Texan border but decided to stop for the night in a little town along Route 66, Tucumcari. Setting the scene for the evening, entering this little ghost town felt like driving onto the set of Pixar’s Cars, a once thriving place is now barely surviving. Rolled into Kiva RV park with their neon lighted sign at full glare, welcome to slab city in New Mexico. We were greeted by a man in a white tank top and shorts, smoking a cigaret. In pure southern hospitality he welcomed us to the park, showed us our site and invited us to participate in the beers and burgers BBQ farewell for a couple who had spent a month at the park, complete with laser lights at the community gazebo! Turns out the owner and his brother moved from Georgia to entrepreneur this RV park business in New Mexico on Route 66. It was quite an experience but reading beyond the cover let us meet a few genuine and interesting people.

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Day Twenty Seven

Mesa Verde, CO to Albuquerque, NM

Arriving at Mesa Verde National Park was exciting, but I wasn’t prepared to be so blown away by the past. This park, unlike most National Parks, is not so much a nature park; driving to the site takes an hour through a windy prairie flat between canyons (hence Green Table for its name) with shrubs and a few pinyon trees. But the second you step down to get under the cliffs, you are transported to another time, the Classic period years 1100-1300 to be exact. What a joy to explore such ancient ruins that are so very well preserved. We decided to take the ranger tour of Cliff Palace, the largest site of remains in the area. They predict over a hundred people once lived and stored their food in the kivas, rooms, and towers built into the cliff. The Ancestral Puebloans were farmers, their fields grew on top the Mesa, above their cliff dwellings. They were also climbers, etching hand and foot holds into the sheer cliffs to reach their crops everyday. We got to climb a series of ten foot long ladders to get in and out. It was quite unreal walking throughout a village with hand shaped rocks for bricks and dried sand water mortaring the walls to stand so perfectly straight you could put a level to it! Three story tall towers reaching up and single story round rooms (kivas) dug deep into the base of the cave. Evidence of soot lined walls and ceilings of rooms where fire was their heat and cooking source. Tiny crawl spaces led back to rooms of storage for winter months. It was amazing feeling and imagining the space alive with its everyday hum to survive. In the Mesa Verde area there are several known cliff dwellings and Cliff Palace is thought to be a gathering place for all groups, a place to store extra crops and resources to be divvied out during winter or long droughts that sometimes lasted years. Either way, the lack of evidence of war or fighting and the intense evidence of a strong community based life has reassured my faith in humanity. What a true treat to enter a past that has been diagnosed by historians and archeologists but still holds its mystery for there is no written documentation for what life was like, all we know we know from the trees. Back on the road in Robin we headed to “four corners”, arrived precisely a half hour late, apparently it is an actual place owned by the Navajo tribe, and they close their gates at 7. Here we were imagining two invisible lines crossing with a sign stuck in the middle reading Four Corners. Oh well, so much for being in four places at once. We got back on the highway New Mexico bound. Cruised at night toward Albuquerque and saw the most magnificent shooting star, it’s tail lasted for many seconds before it burnt out, brilliant! Landed in Bernalillo, a suburb of the main city to sleep for the night.
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